Elmina

On Robert’s advice we headed early for the tropical rain forest in the Kakum Nature Reserve.  Morning mist slowly lifted like a veil from the towering trees. From the forest floor, with ferns and bushes, trees rose like pillars in a Greek temple. High above our craning necks monkeys chattered, birds flitted and swooped and colourful butterflies fluttered. We were able to see the teeming life in the forest canopy from an ariel walkway built 30ft above the forest floor. At first we were the only visitors to brave the aluminium ladders strung between the tallest trees with steel wires. But we were soon joined by another family and a Ghanaian army sergeant.  As we ventured out into the leafy space the ladders bounced alarmingly and the wires we clutched with white knuckles swayed gently.  Margaret and the Ghanaian sergeant decided discretion was the greatest part of valour and bounced slowly back to the starting tree. Allan went on, and had a brief conversation with the family man, whilst they both hugged a tree trunk which was a rest point on the ariel walkway. It turned out he was British High Commissioner for Nigeria and was there on holiday with his family.  Perhaps the most interesting part of the visit was walk in the woods with a forestry expert. He showed us the slowing growing ebony trees, mahogany trees and the huge quick growing kapok trees with massive buttresses stabilising these woodland giants.

Being in tourist country we dined that evening at the expensive but excellent Coconut Grove Beach Resort. Robert was on hand to deliver us back our despondent hotel.

Elmina castle is the oldest European building in Africa.  It was commissioned by King John II of Portugal in 1482.  Today it still dominated the busy fishing beach and commanded the defence of the river where wooden fishing boats were built. The huge white walls of the castle towered over the beach where brightly painted boats were dragged up onto the sand surrounded by hundreds of frenetic fish traders and porters. The fishing boats were brightly and boldly named with Christian themes. We particularly liked ‘Jesus the Fisherman’. Opposite the castle is a fort built later to defend the castle. Whilst lunching in a pleasant hotel on the river we again met Ros the VSO Ghana volunteer and her parents. We enjoyed comparing notes with them on their tour of Ghana. 

This article is part of a series describing our tour of West Africa
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