Lombok

The western coast road on Lombok followed the convoluted coastline of coves, inlets, bays and hills. At the top of each hill magnificent vistas of deserted, white sand beaches unfolded in each direction. The white crests of waves advanced in ranks across the blue ocean on to the palm lined beaches stretching into the distance. In more protected coves, lines of wooden fishing boats with outriggers were pulled up on to the sand. Here we chatted to Lombok fishermen about high waves, strong winds and treacherous currents. Two fishermen had been lost only the week before.

Lombok, east of Bali, was a delightfully laid back island, largely undeveloped outside of the Capital, Mataram. Certainly there were small hotels, guesthouses and shacks but we could walk down to fishermen’s beaches and share a glass of tea with them before strolling on.

The two main attractions were the Gunung Rinjani volcano which could be climbed in three days to see the colourful crater lakes and the tropical Gili Islands. Visitors flock to the white sand beaches and crystal clear blue waters of the Gili Islands which are surrounded by living coral. We took a public boat out to the islands and enjoyed the peaceful calm of Gili Trawangan where cars and motorbikes are banned. The only transport is pony and trap, cycling or walking.

An island hoping boat took us to Gili Meno and then Gili Air. Returning to Lombok from Gili Air we hitched a ride in a family fishing boat, owned by Jon. As the sun slowly set the evening breeze strengthened into a wind, whipping up a choppy sea of white crested waves separated by deep troughs. We watched Jon’s son Dos bale out water as the boat struggled to climb up a mountain of white steaked green water, the summit high above our heads. As we broached the top the outrigger dug deep into the foam lashing a shower of spray over us and into the boat. Dos baled steadily chatting about British football teams, quite unconcerned with the weather.

It was wonderful to relax on Lombok. As with the rest of Indonesia the people were friendly and welcoming. Less sophisticated than Java and with less polish than Bali Lombok had a natural charm that was refreshing.