Ipoh

First impressions are very important and our first impression of Ipoh on the west coast of Malaysia was one of open friendliness. Our taxi driver chatted happily as he took us to the wrong hotel. He had been a sergeant in an infantry regiment in the Malaysian army. Having studied Allan’s map we drove through fairly light traffic along wide roads toward the right hotel, directed by Allan. We reached the hotel at the point he was reminiscing about patrols in the steamy Malaysian jungle. The fare did not increase despite the tour of Ipoh and his early life.

 

Our driver handed us on to the smiling hotel desk clerks who explained pleasantly that the hotel had no dining facilities. There were however several cafés near by that could rustle up pork noodles or cheese on toast for breakfast.

 

The town was full of history, conveniently laid out in walking routes described in detail in excellent leaflets published by the Ipoh Heritage Group. Almost fifty historical buildings were described including the shop where Chinese tin miner Eu Yan Sang set up his medical shop in 1879. His son later expanded this into a major pharmaceutical business. He also expanded his interests to eleven wives and palatial mansions in Hong Kong, Singapore, Penang and Kuala Lumpur. Smiling people wandered toward us to chat about the historical buildings and suggest others that might be of interest.

 

The rich mixture of Mogul and classical architecture is evident in the pleasant Mosque built by the local chief in 1898 in memory of his principle wife who died that year.  Here, passers by stopped to chat, motorcyclists on footpaths politely apologised for any inconvenience caused and the occasional car driver paused to welcome us to Ipoh. We certainly felt welcomed.

 

The British influence seemed to be everywhere from the Indian inspired Neo Classical railway station to the grand Town Hall, Law Courts and Post Office. The old town architecture was decidedly British. In their day the copulas of the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank dominated this affluent town, built on the riches from rubber and tin.

 

Ipoh bean sprouts are rightly famous throughout Malaysia. In a busy street restaurant we watched baskets full being snatched from an old blue 40 gallon drum, plunged for five seconds into a vat of boiling stock and deposited onto our plates. They were delicious and an excellent accompaniment to flat Ipoh noodles in pork soup.

 

On a small hill outside Ipoh a big mansion was once built by a successful Scottish rubber planter called Kellie almost a hundred years ago. Apparently he brought seventy craftsmen from Madras, in India, to build the two storey mansion which, certainly has strong Indian architectural influences. This was to have been the culmination of his spectacular career. Unfortunately just at the height of his success he died of pneumonia, aged 56.   The almost completed mansion now called ‘Kellie’s castle’ has been refurbished and opened to visitors. Some say the ghost of Kellie still drifts through the empty rooms.

 

Ipoh’s restaurants, large and small have a deservedly high reputation for good food. Some like the Foh San Restaurant attract diners from all over Malaysia. We’d heard that people travel up from Kuala Lumpur to sample the Hong Kong style Dim Sum. Even at lunch time this fine restaurant was packed with the good and the great of Ipoh’s Chinese community whom we easily merged in with to nods and smiles from our fellow diners.

 

Ipoh is surrounded by large and impressive limestone karst mountains. Millions of years of rushing water from torrential tropical rainfall has sculpted vast and beautiful caves. In some, Buddhist temples have been dedicated, with connecting cathedral like galleries housing exquisite bronze and brass religious sculptures.

 

We left Ipoh with fond memories of friendly people eating good food in a pleasant leisurely town which has managed to retain much of its heritage.

 

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