On Robert’s advice we headed early for the tropical rain forest in the Kakum Nature Reserve.  Morning mist slowly lifted like a veil from the towering trees. From the forest floor, with ferns and bushes, trees rose like pillars in a Greek temple. High above our craning necks monkeys chattered, birds flitted and swooped and colourful butterflies fluttered. We were able to see the teeming life in the forest canopy from an ariel walkway built 30ft above the forest floor. At first we were the only visitors to brave the aluminium ladders strung between the tallest trees with steel wires. But we were soon joined by another family and a Ghanaian army sergeant.  As we ventured out into the leafy space the ladders bounced alarmingly and the wires we clutched with white knuckles swayed gently.  Margaret and the Ghanaian sergeant decided discretion was the greatest part of valour and bounced slowly back to the starting tree. Allan went on, and had a brief conversation with the family man, whilst they both hugged a tree trunk which was a rest point on the ariel walkway. It turned out he was British High Commissioner for Nigeria and was there on holiday with his family.  Perhaps the most interesting part of the visit was walk in the woods with a forestry expert. He showed us the slowing growing ebony trees, mahogany trees and the huge quick growing kapok trees with massive buttresses stabilising these woodland giants.

Being in tourist country we dined that evening at the expensive but excellent Coconut Grove Beach Resort. Robert was on hand to deliver us back our despondent hotel.

Elmina castle is the oldest European building in Africa.  It was commissioned by King John II of Portugal in 1482.  Today it still dominated the busy fishing beach and commanded the defence of the river where wooden fishing boats were built. The huge white walls of the castle towered over the beach where brightly painted boats were dragged up onto the sand surrounded by hundreds of frenetic fish traders and porters. The fishing boats were brightly and boldly named with Christian themes. We particularly liked ‘Jesus the Fisherman’. Opposite the castle is a fort built later to defend the castle. Whilst lunching in a pleasant hotel on the river we again met Ros the VSO Ghana volunteer and her parents. We enjoyed comparing notes with them on their tour of Ghana. 

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The modern bus station in Kumasi was a model of efficiency.  Our tickets had our names printed on them and our luggage was weighed and a computer generated ticket was stapled to our rucksack.  The bus left on time and we were on our way to Cape Coast. Passing through Kumasi it was intriguing to see the Christian influence on the shops and businesses. There was the ‘God’s Blood’ exhaust and brake centre, the ‘Our Lady’ hairdressing salon and ‘He will provide’ supermarket.   The bus was a luxury coach with comfortable seats, seat belts, air conditioning, a toilet and a flim being shown on a retractable flat screen TV.  We just couldn’t believe the level of sophistication we were experiencing.  It was like being sucked through a time warp from the centuries old lifestyles of the Tuareg  at Timbuktu and the Dogon people in Mali to this bus heading confidently to the Cape Coast.

As we headed south the vegetation gradually became more luxuriant with tall trees, bamboo thickets, broad leaf bushes and palm trees.  We had finally left the semi arid scrub and were now entering the tropical rainforest zone.
 
We arrived on time and took a taxi to our hotel. Our taxi driver, Robert, was a genial local who could spot a good thing when he saw it. Two toubabs arriving from a coach was definitely a good thing.  He took us to the Sanaa Lodge hotel which had certainly seen better days.  It was run down and needed maintenance.  The staff were depressed and despondent and this was reflected in the standard of service.  The food served in the restaurant and by the pool was poor, if the staff remembered to serve it.  Here we met John and Barbara, an energetic British couple who were working as teachers in Nigeria, and loving it. They were so disgusted with the food that they went elsewhere to eat or brought food in.  The staff told us mournfully that the hotel had been sold to a black American and that they were waiting for the new owner to take control in March 2006.  So perhaps the fortunes of the hotel and the staff have improved by now.

In the evening Robert drove us through the cooling air to Cape Coast castle. It was marvellous to be at the ocean again after our journey through Mali and the desert. The castle glistened white in the warm evening light. From the ramparts black iron canons still pointed out to sea where fishing boats with brightly coloured sales raced for the shore. This was once the seat of British administration in this part of West Africa, which the British colonised and called the Gold Coast. Our guide made a very interesting and perhaps obvious point in his presentation on the history of the castle.  Whilst this was certainly the last staging post for salves on their way to the Americas they had previously passed through several dealers. The African kings of the interior, The Ashanti, had captured these people during battles and skirmishes and held them captive. The slaves were then sold and transported to the coastal kings.  These kings controlling the coast not only charged the Europeans ground rent on their castles but also charged rent for every slave kept overnight in the castles. So the African kings were heavily and not honourably engaged in the slave trade. Indeed one of the reasons for the eventual British military action against the Ashanti kingdoms in Ghana was that they refused to give up the slave trade.

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We planned to head on down to Kumasi the second largest city in Ghana. The Christmas festivities meant that the public transport was busy.  The grand STC buses were booked up until boxing day so we opted for a bush van. So to be sure of getting on an early bush van we were up and out at the crack of dawn.  The poor hotel manager came to the reception in his underpants and T-shirt to process our MasterCard.  We were now using credit cards whenever possible to conserve our cash.  As people were stirring and gathering their thoughts for breakfast we flagged down a battered local taxi with two seats free. Well actually there were no seats free but the smiling driver said he could squeeze us in. The boot was already fully loaded and hanging open.  The driver assured us, with a helpful grin, that there was plenty of room in the car for us and room in the boot for the luggage.  So we loaded our rucksacks into the permanently open boot and snuggled in with the other beaming passengers.  At the hectic crowded bush van garage we found a bush van almost completely loaded.  This was good because it meant it would go soon.   However the only seats left were the back seats which didn’t allow you to put your feet down. So naturally we sat with our knees up.  Not really a good position for what was billed as a seven hour journey. In a haze of blue smoke we were off.  At the first police checkpoint one of the passengers stood up and led the other passengers in a prayer for a safe journey.  It was impressive to see how everyone bowed their heads as the prayer began. The Muslims sat with their hands, palms up, in their laps. As the prayer rambled on several passengers said Amen hopefully.  Even the Muslims started saying Amen in raised voices trying to drop a not too subtle hint to our self appointed pastor.

The bush van of course was packed and the roof fully loaded. We sat crammed in, unable to move more than an inch in any direction.  We soon felt very stiff and sore.  The journey though was through interesting countryside and villages.  We were excited to see some green vegetation for the first time after the arid landscapes of the past four weeks.
 
Miraculously we arrived in Kumasi about seven hours after we left Tamale, but then hit major traffic jams, maybe because of Christmas.  At the crowded and bustling bush van garage we found a taxi driver who agreed to drive us out to Lake Bosomtwi, about an hour away.

As we drove west from Kumasi the plain was again dusty yellow scrub, but in the distance there was a smudge of dark green.  Slowly from the afternoon haze a range of mountains rose up in front of us.  The green clad hills steadily emerged and we could differentiate individual trees. Quite suddenly the gradient changed and we were climbing from the plain and up into the tree line. Enjoying the shade of the big deciduous trees, towering palms and massive stands of bamboo we continued to climb. Then we saw it, Lake Bosmotwi!  From the summit we were looking down at the breathtaking view of the 8km diameter vegetation clad crater protecting the mesmerizing circular blue lake. The lake was formed by a meteorite impact and the 8km diameter crater was surrounded by a ring of steep mountains which were now covered with lush tropical vegetation. 

Our destination was the Lake Bosomtwe Paradise Resort a modern hotel which fitted into its environment but still boasted huge soft beds in very well appointed rooms with TV, fridge, telephone and air conditioning.  Our room had magnificent views of the evening sun shimmering on the mirror like surface of this special lake which was sacred to the Ashanti people. This is where we planned to spend a few quiet days over Christmas.  From the hotel grounds on the shore of the lake fishermen could be watched on flat boards fishing using circular nets.  They paddled their boards silently using flat pieces of wood held in each hand.

It was a great place to relax and collect ourselves after our travels, so far.  There were many sights and experiences to ponder and think through. We could also sort ourselves out and deal with things like washing. 

Christmas day was beautiful with a light mist hovering over the calm blue surface of Lake Bosumtwi.  We had our traditional bacon rolls for breakfast sitting by the lake shore watching the fishermen gliding effortlessly over the glassy surface of the lake.  Later, walking around the lake, we passed through three fishing villages which looked very poor. Even by Gambian standards these people were deprived.  They lived in mud brick houses with thatched roofs and many seemed in disrepair. Yet we were greeted with friendly smiling faces. It seemed really incongruous to be walking around in the heat of an African day listening to Christmas carols sung in English coming from mud brick churches packed with local people.  But Ghana was a very Christian country.  Our walk took us on a track around the lake and many people wished us happy Christmas as we passed.  After a fairly energetic day we were surprised and delighted when the hotel manageress announced that they would serve us a traditional European Christmas dinner.  We were the only Europeans there and we were touched that they should think of this. They did well, serving roast chicken, with stuffing, roast potatoes and peas.  We appreciated the gesture and enjoyed the meal.  It was a good hotel with nice staff and we would certainly go there again.  

Kumasi is the second biggest city in Ghana, with over a million inhabitants, it looks and feels like a capital city. It was once the capital of the Ashanti empire and is still the vibrant focal point for the Ashanti peoples. The military museum is housed in an old British fort and the excellent guide was very entertaining.  He didn’t pull his punches as he told us, with a twinkle in eye, about the history of the Ashanti people and about British rule in Ghana.  There were large displays of weapons and small arms captured by the Ghanaian regiments serving in Italy, Germany and the Far East during the Second World War.  The Kumasi Cultural Centre was a collection of fairly large modern buildings in well kept park land.  There were museums, libraries, galleries and workshops where local crafts were being practiced.  One fascinating small museum boasted well laid out displays of artefacts from Ashanti cultural history and the Ashanti royal family.  Allan was particularly intrigued by a very interesting drum which sounded like a leopard roaring when the surface was scratched. 

We had heard in Gambia about the famous Okomfo Anokye Hospital.  The security staff there were delighted to give us an informal tour which included the Okomfo Anokye sword.   The legend is very similar to the English sword in the stone legend, except that the sword is still there, housed in a purpose built visitors centre.  The sword was not too impressive but the hospital was huge, about five times bigger than the Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital. 

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