The distant cheer increased in volume until the spectators around us rose to applaud the smart mounted squadron of turbaned Sikh horse guards trotting by with banners flying from their lances. Resplendent in blue tunics and highly polished knee boots they formed the honour guard for the President of India.  The arrival of the President signalled the beginning of the Indian Republic Day parade, one of the most spectacular events held in Delhi.

Working for the Indian Government we were invited by the Ministry of Defence to sit in the civil servants spectator enclosure to enjoy this annual celebration of military might. Soon we were tapping our feet and clapping our hands to the military bands marching down Raj Path, the massive, wide and stately boulevard that links the old British Secretariat Buildings with India Gate. Mounted on ambling camels the Rajasthan Regiment’s full silver band could not fail to engender an enthusiastic response.

Between the bands came phalanxes of immaculate marching troops twelve across. Each regiment wore distinctive colourful headgear such as yellow and red turbans shaped into high vertical fans. Wild cheering from our otherwise conservative colleagues was reserved for those regiments who had performed well in border clashes with Pakistan and China. It reminded us that the Indian forces were very much on active service.  Indian designed and manufactured tanks rumbled down Raj Path, dipping their barrels in salute to the President and the Chiefs of Staff. These were followed by home produced long range missiles. Our friendly companions pointed with pride to the new Indian jet fighter plane mounted on a display truck. Then overhead Indian Air Force jaguar planes roared in formation followed by bigger transport and refuelling planes.

Our only disappointment was that elephants were missing from this years’ parade. Too dangerous apparently. This was made up for by colourful and imaginative floats from each of the States. The organisers were trying to get away from an overtly militaristic theme by introducing more civilian elements.  The closing note was the national anthem sung with gusto and the release of thousands of red, white and green balloons, the national colours.  

A couple of days later came the Beating the Retreat Ceremony. Held at the imposing Secretariat Buildings at sunset it was an impressive occasion. Massed pipes and drums of the Indian Army with tartan uniforms marched down the central avenue to perform before an invited audience. Silhouetted against the ramparts camel mounted trumpeters serenaded the crowd. Finally the pipes played ‘abide with me’ as the flag was lowered. At the last glimmer of light and the final note of the ‘Last Post’ the monumental buildings, copulas, domes and spires were picked out in millions of white bulbs to transform the scene into an awe inspiring spectacle we will never forget.