Archive for The Gambia
A happy future?
Posted by: | CommentsThis is the first of some 50 word tales inspired by observing life in The Gambia.
She sat, reflecting on her chosen life. A new youth. No more cold European winters with bone aching aging. No! For her warm sun, a blue sky and a hot blooded young love. What price this extended youth? Two co-wives as friends. Not too high a price. A good decision.
Places to visit in The Gambia
Posted by: | CommentsWe are often asked what sights we think are worth seeing, which places we found interesting and what would we recommend doing. These are our thoughts.
The details may change so we suggest you check with a good guide book. We prefer the “Rough Guide” series because they are well written and kept up to date. You can get more details on: www.roughguides.com
River Gambia long distance trips
Lamin Lodge. River boat anchored at Nature Camp, Janjanbureh
We have thoroughly enjoyed spending three days and two nights travelling up the river from Lamin Lodge to Janjanbureh. The boats are traditional wooden hulled pirogues with an open wooden superstructure.
It is incredibly relaxing to lounge on the deck spotting the many different species of brilliantly coloured birds along the river and looking out for crocodiles and hippos. If you are lucky you may have dolphins around the boat near the estuary.
At night you sleep peacefully under mosquito nets on the deck. The crew is boat’s captain, a deckhand and a cook. Whether it is being out on the river or having a really good cook we have always found the food on these boats to be great. It is better if a group of say six or eight friends hire the boat together. Alternatively you can travel with another group. The river trips start at Lamin Lodge. This is also the starting point for many half day and one day boat trips. Bird watching trips set out at dawn in canoes cruising along the mangrove swamps channels to spot the hundreds of water bird species in the area. Lamin Lodge itself is eccentric timber structure which houses a restaurant and some accommodation. The long distance river trips end at the Nature Camp at Janjanbureh and people then take a bushvan or taxi back to Barra and the ferry into Banjul.
Gambia’s Beaches
Fishing boats on Sanyang Beach. Sand Plover Beach bar near Bakau
Gambia has wonderful clean beaches which stretch for miles. With guaranteed sun and cloudless skies they are a great way to spend a few days. The beaches near the tourist hotels are patrolled by security staff to ward off the hawkers and beach fruit and juice sellers, otherwise these can be a nuisance. However the unspoilt beaches away from the tourist areas can be a delight.
Local Markets
Basse Market. An apprentice in Brikama Craft Market
It is worthwhile and very rewarding to get away from the tourist areas and visit one of the many local fruit, veg and household markets. These are busy crowded and energetic places where the locals buy their daily needs. Spend a bit of time chatting to the stall holders. Money spent here will go straight into the local economy. The craft markets are of course set up for tourists and bargining is expected. Still many of the wood carvings on sale are attractive and many Gambians derive a living from making and selling them.
Makasutu Cultural Forest
Makasutu is an attraction designed to give the visitor a taste of the Gambia. Here you can try paddling through the mangrove swamps in a dugout canoe. Really knowledgeable guides conduct forest walks for spotting birds, baboons, monkeys and discussing the trees and plants. During lunch entertaining traditional dance and music is performed. It is a good day out for all the family. Makasuto is near the town of Brikama. The best way to get there is through your hotel or guesthouse or you can travel independently by Tourist Taxi.
Banjul City Tours
A visit to the Capital, Banjul, should take in Arch 22, The National Museum and Albert Market. The road into Banjul is dominated by the big white Arch 22, built to commemorate the successful military coup of army lieutenant Yahya Jammeh on 22 July 1994. President Jammeh is still in power after a couple of successful elections. Visitors should also pause to see King Fahad Mosque, probably the most attractive building in Banjul. Muslim visitors may see inside whilst non-Muslim visitors need to request permission.
It is also possible to have a guided tour of the Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital. Most visitors take an organised tour from their hotel. However there is plenty public transport from the very cheap and cheerful bushvans, through local yellow and green taxis to the all green tourist taxis.
Bijilo Forest Park
Not far from the Senegambia Tourist area the Bijilo Forest Park offers a chance to wander through pristine tropical forest with towering palms and spreading broad leaf trees. There is absolutely no difficulty in spotting monkeys along the four well laid out and marked circular trails. The shy red colombus monkeys are however more elusive, but patience may bring its rewards. This is a good place to have a relaxing picnic under the trees. Guides are available and they are good at spotting the wildlife that you otherwise might miss.
Katchikali Sacred Crocodile Pool
The approach to Katchikali through the village of Bakau is an education in itself. The people are used to visitors and there are handicraft stalls on the main road and painting places in the village. However the village has not been cleaned up or improved to attract tourists. Katchikali, regarded as a scared pool, is a deep pool and home to fifty or so crocodiles. This is your chance to get up close and personal to big reptiles which are well fed and pretty docile. The friendly guides encourage people to have their photographs taken stroking the crocs. A walk in the surrounding woodland may be rewarded with the sighting of a two metre monitor lizard. There is also an interesting cultural museum at Katchikali. The best way to get there is through your hotel or guesthouse or you can travel independently by Tourist Taxi.
Abuko Nature Reserve
The Abuko Nature Reserve has nice well laid out walks through pleasant woodland. Visitors are almost guaranteed to see colourful birds, butterflies and at least two species of monkeys. Its main charm though is an opportunity to spend a quiet half day away from the tourist hotspots. There is a zoo of sorts but the cages are too small and the apes look traumatised by their captivity. It is probably best to give this a miss. There is also a big domestic animal market at Abuko which is worth a look. Abuko Nature Reserve is on the road between Serrekunda and Brikama. There are bush vans which pass the reserve, but the best way to get there is through your hotel or guesthouse or you can travelling independently in a Tourist Taxi.
James Island and Jufureh
James Island seen from the river. Barra Ferries passing
Visits to James Island are usually associated with organised trips to Albreda and Jufureh, made by famous by the “Roots” novel. There is a ruined castle on James Island which is in the estuary of the River Gambia, near the north bank. The north bank towns of Albreda and Jufureh have some displays addressing the slave trade, which was never very active on this part of the West African coast. The main interest in visiting James Island is the ferry crossing between Banjul and Barra. Barra itself is a port alive with the energy and hustle and bustle of travelling in West Africa. Most visitors take advantage of a hotel organised trip. An alternative is to visit James Island as part of a long distance river trip.
Wassu stone circles
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These enigmatic stone circles are thought to be 700 to 800 years old and the relics of a civilisation which once prospered here. There are similar stone circles elsewhere in Gambia and Senegal, but the site at Wassu is the best example. The stone circles are near the small town of Kuntaur, between the larger towns of Farafenni and Janjanbureh (Georgetown). This is a good place to stop if you are on a north bank road trip, the toilets are clean and well maintained. It is also a popular stopping place for long distance boat trips. Visitors travel on flat bed horse drawn carts to get from the river to the stone circles.
All of these sights can be arranged through your hotel or tour operator.
www.gambia.co.uk
www.gambiatours.gm
Where we were:
Two Years in The Gambia
Posted by: | CommentsThe weather here is still perfect, cool 25oC nights and lovely 32oC clear blue sky days. The mangos are ripe and delicious. Everyone is eating them, including the big fruit bats. This year’s grapefruit are sweet and juicy and hanging abundantly on the trees. The only downside is that our two years as volunteers in The Gambia are almost over. We will be returning to the UK in mid May and will probably live in the Aylesbury area. So this will be our last e-mail from Africa.
We thought we would reflect on what we have done here. Almost two years ago Margaret entered the GOVI compound and saw a bright crimson bird perched on a stalk of corn, amidst a sea of post rain weeds. She was welcomed with many smiles and requests and was installed in a dark dusty office complete with resident frogs, mice and cockroaches. There was an air of “We need help” about the place. Now as she leaves GOVI, clutching her prized certificate of honorary membership awarded by the long awaited general conference, she looks back at a neater compound. There are banana plants growing, brightly painted play equipment for the children and a new office nestling in the corner. Has she done all this? No but she has helped. She caught the frogs and set the mice free in the compound. The old office now houses an adult literacy class and the Braille technician has moved out of the restructured library into his own space. The new office boasts an improved filing system and a confident accounts clerk.
The executive director is working at the computer responding to e-mails from partners and friends and, hopefully, dumping all the junk ones offering services best left to the imagination. In the hall, with its new stage and fresh blue curtains, one of many events is taking place bringing in much needed income. The new treasurer sits with the outgoing one, gathering information and advice, while the teacher in charge prepares to head out on his motor bike to visit children in integrated schools. Margaret leaves behind the fundraising officer working together with the new board, liaising with fundraising advisers from the Institutional Development Programme. The immediate financial needs of the organisation have been identified and budgets prepared. There are the beginnings of strategic plans for the future and work is in hand to find ways of funding these.
The youth wing members are making music, the women are busy with their soap making project and there is a new confidence in the organisation. It is good to see the positive progress made in the two years and all Margaret can do now is hope that it will continue. How much of this is down to Margaret? Given that she spent two years trying not to do anything, just to give advice she’s not sure. She taught the accounts clerk to improve his spreadsheet skills and advised him about the way he should work with his director and treasurer. She has advised on the importance of transparent and accountable reporting. Together the director, secretary and she devised a new filing system. Teachers have been trained in the use of computers, partly by Margaret and partly by her identifying a free course for them. She has supported the director in communicating with partners, in improving his administrative skills and taught him to use e-mail and internet. He can now type his own letters if necessary. At her suggestion a hall committee was set up to administer hall bookings and she has worked with the youth and women’s wings to develop their work plans. The fundraising officer and Margaret ran a workshop to enable the organisation to develop future plans to enable fundraising bids to be written. Along the way she has demonstrated the benefits of regular communications both between departments and with external partners.
Report writing has been improved. Generous donations from friends and family have helped with improvements to the garden, new musical instruments and equipment for the school. She advised the committee who were developing an updated constitution which was adopted at the first AGM for many years. She also helped with the planning and fundraising for the General Conference which elected the new board, which has a much better gender balance. The new energetic board has breathed new life into the organisation and will move GOVI forward over the next few years.
The hospital was where Allan worked was pretty big, with 1200 staff and 550 beds. It was built by the British in 1953 and progressively refurbished since then. There were three fundamental problems. Firstly the hospital needed about 100 million dalasis (£2 million) to function anywhere like properly and the government provided only D30 million (£600,000). Secondly there were no written procedures. Arrangements were made by word of mouth, people made up the rules as they went along and there was terrific wastage of time, effort and materials. It other words little or no recognisable organisation. Thirdly there was and is endemic theft and fraud. The people here are extremely poor with 56% of the children being malnourished. So goods, equipment and medicines flowed freely out of the hospital. This characteristic was not unique to the hospital the other businesses and hotels in The Gambia also struggled to retain their resources. The management in the hospital were very capable and enthusiastic medical people and some career civil servants who had little or no management training. So they tended to fire fight, jumping from crisis to crisis, achieving small successes each day. When Allan joined this team he asked them what they wanted him to do. They wanted more money, a strategy to allow long term forward planning and a way to make the hospital run more efficiently. So he started by asking all of the staff where they thought the hospital should be going and how they thought they could get there. This was done by a short questionnaire and discussion groups in local languages. There were of course more complex discussions within the Hospital Board, the Senior Management Team and with the chief executives of other, smaller hospitals in The Gambia. The upshot was a ten year Strategy Plan, focussed on the next two years. This covered all of the hospital’s departments and services, including the structure and organisation of the hospital management. The Strategy Plan called for negotiation with the Government for better funding and the introduction of commercial medicine. This would allow the hospital to set up a commercial clinic where well off Gambians, ex-pats, and visitors could be treated. The income would then flow back into the hospital and the public health service to supplement the Government grant. No profits would go to individuals or shareholders.
Next Allan suggested that the Senior Management Team needed to be re-organised and expanded, with the addition of an Estates Manager to oversee hospital maintenance. The existing Management Team had no middle management to delegate duties to. That is why they were always solving immediate problems rather that planning and taking action to avert them. So the hospital promoted and trained promising young people and recruited some in. For instance senior nurses were promoted to be departmental matrons, each running a couple of wards. It was not really rocket science.
To further improve the management of the hospital Allan suggested that they establish a Quality Management System. This included a description of the management structure and who was responsible for what. It was interesting that there were some sections of the hospital which did not appear to be under any senior management control. Next the staff started writing down all the informal procedures and work practices. Allan trained 24 Quality Representatives to talk to their colleagues and capture in writing what people believed the procedures were for doing their job. These were then discussed with heads of departments and then formalised as Standard Hospital Procedures. The hospital now has organisational charts for every department, job descriptions for the first time and over 250 Standard Hospital Procedures. During the course of this work some alarming facts were discovered.
The Chief Medical Director was a dental surgeon and one of her dreams was to reach out to the community offering dental education, treatment and care. Allan found a dental van which had been donated some years previously. So he negotiated with some of the local tourist hotels and found one which liked the idea of sponsoring a mobile dental clinic. The Kombo Beach Hotel agreed to pay for a dentist, two nurses and a driver and all the drugs, stores, fuel and maintenance for the vehicle. Since October 2005 the clinic has toured the country and treated over 2500 patients.
The hospital also had a steady stream of tourists wanting to see the hospital. These people usually brought some small donations but it took up a lot of time of the hospital Public Relations Officer to look after them. Allan suggested setting up a Hospital Tours Group to look after visitors in a more organised way. He trained 12 hospital staff to be part time tour guides. He also established a visitor’s centre. Now there are regular tours which bring in useful additional income to the hospital. He also set up the Friends of the Hospital scheme so that interested British people can donate a small amount regularly in the UK. We have really enjoyed living and working in The Gambia. We appreciate all the wonderful support we have received from our friends and relatives that made our time here so worthwhile. In the past two years we have learned an enormous amount about Africa, her geography, people culture and politics. It has been a breathtaking experience.
More pictures.