Archive for Facts
Places to visit in Laos
Posted by: | CommentsPlaces to visit in Laos
We are often asked what sights we think are worth seeing, which places we found interesting and what would we recommend doing. These are our thoughts. There is much more detail in our Journal for Laos. We travelled from south to north but these entries are based on the places we liked best.
The details may change so we suggest you check with a good guide book. We suggest “Lonely Planet” or the “Rough Guide” series because they are both well written and kept up to date. You can get more information on;
http://www.lonelyplanet.com
http://www.roughguides.com
Many visitors only visit Luang Phabang and Vientiane with some also stopping at Vang Vieng. Consequently these towns see many tourists and tend to cater to tourists. However the southern towns of Laos are well worth a visit if you can afford the time.
Slow Boat on the Mekong
The boat trip on the Mekong between Luang Phabang and Hauy Xai travels through majestic mountainous scenery in one of the remotest stretches on the river. A trip on one of the slow boats designed to take tourists is highly recommended.
www.asia-oasis.com
Vientiane (Central Laos)
There are several sights of interest in Vientiane, the Capital of Laos. Being a centre of commerce and religion the city feels less like a tourist resort and more like a working town. It is however a small city of only a quarter of a million people and without the hustle and bustle of Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur or Saigon.
Probably the most impress sight is Pha That Luang, the most important national and religious monument in Laos.
The Patuxai or Victory monument is set in a pleasant gardens on the main road into the centre of the city.
Wat Sisaket is an old pagoda built around 1820 and the cloister walls are studded with hundreds of niches housing over 2000 silver and ceramic Buddha images.
Wat Si Muang is the site of an ancient masonry pillar said to be 1000 years old and the remains of the original ancient city.
The National Museum of Religious Art, Haw Pha Kaeo, is housed in a former Royal Temple and houses fine examples of bronze and wooden Buddha images. Well worth a visit.
Plain of Jars (Central Laos)
Located in the Centre of Laos, near the town of Phonsavan, the 1000 metre elevation plateaux is surrounded by high peaks. Here hundreds of huge 2,500 year old stone jars are found in groups across the plain. It is worth spending a couple of days exploring these evocative sites with a guide.
It is important to stick to the marked paths as there are still unexploded bombs left from the American war in the 60s and 70s.
Luang Phabang (Northern Laos)
This well preserved ancient capital of Laos is a pleasure to walk through and be in. The Royal Palace Museum is well worth a visit. There also several pagodas which have survived the ravages of time and invading armies from the surrounding countries. Every morning at 06:00 the monks from the pagodas walk slowly along Than Sakkarin accepting alms from the townsfolk and visitors. Some say the town has gone too far to attract and accommodate tourists to the extent that the character of the town is being lost.
Pakse (Southern Laos)
There are two major attractions in this area, apart from the town itself.
The ancient Kymer temple of Wat Phou is at Champasak, about 16km from Pakse. The 1000 year old ruins of the temple are set in an imposing location of vegetation clad mountains. Many of the sculptures and intricate carvings are well preserved in the excellent modern museum at the site.
The other attraction is the people and countryside of the Bolaven Plateau. Trips can be arranges to spectacular waterfalls and villages of the indigenous peoples.
Si Phan Don (Deep South near the border with Cambodia)
This region is called the four thousand islands because the River Mekong spreads out into a shallow 16 km wide inland delta with numerous rapids and cascade waterfalls.
In the dry season, when the river is low, taking a boat between the islands to see the waterfalls is a good day out.
The remains of the French railway built to move cargo past the waterfalls can still be seen on one of the islands.
Freshwater dolphins are another major attraction although the number of dolphins in the river here is falling.
Vang Vieng (Central Laos)
The beautiful Song river and spectacular scenery bring many visitors to Vang Viang. The limestone caves, trekking opportunities and relaxing on the river in canoes, boats, kayaks and inner tubes makes Vang Vieng a popular destination. However the ready availability of drugs and excessive drinking are tarnishing the reputation of this laid back town.
Thakek (Southern Laos)
A quiet town with few ‘sights’ Thakek offers several interesting limestone caves to visit. Whilst in the dry season these are easily accessible, some with well constructed walkways and steps deep inside, in the wet season a boat or waist deep wading is necessary.
Savannaket (Southern Laos)
Savannaket is a quiet town which still retains many examples of French colonial architecture. The people are friendly and helpful and in Wat Sainyaphum English speaking monks are happy to chat. In the evening the population seems to gravitate toward the temporary cafes by the river bank to cook their meals on charcoal burners on their tables.
Places to visit in Vietnam
Posted by: | CommentsWe are often asked what sights we think are worth seeing, which places we found interesting and what would we recommend doing. These are our thoughts. There is much more detail in our Journal for Vietnam.
The details may change so we suggest you check with a good guide book. We prefer the “Rough Guide” series because they are well written and kept up to date. You can get more information on www.roughguides.com
These notes are based on our journey in 2007 from the Mekong Delta in the south to Sapa in the North. So the listing here does not imply a preference. However we did greatly enjoy the Mekong Delta, “Tet” in Saigon and the beaches and cities in the South. Hanoi on the other hand was a trial of wits to prevent being ripped off.
Mekong Delta
Floating Markets of the Mekong Delta are fast disappearing as the road and bridge network is improved. The floating Market at Can Tho is a wonderful sight and is best visited in the early morning.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
The City
Notra Dam Cathedral Hotel De Ville
General Post Office and the Opera House
It is worth spending a few days taking in the French architecture and the many excellent museums. Don’t miss the War Remnants museum, it gives a frank view of the American War from the Vietnamese perspective.
Cao Di Cathedral
An interesting excursion is to visit the Cao Dai Great Temple at Tay Ninh.
Chu Chi Tunnels
The network of tunnels 60km from Saigon used by the Viet Con to resist the American and south Vietnamese forces are open to the public. Here you see destroyed US tanks, crouch in the tunnels and fire a variety of weapons from the period.
Tet
We thoroughly enjoyed celebrating Chinese New Year or “Tet” in Saigon in February 2007. There was an air of friendly festivity and the streets were full of lion dancers, dragons and colourful lanterns.
Mui Ne
Beach
The beautiful beach at Mui Ne is clean and relatively free of traders and hawkers. There is accommodation to suit all pockets. This is a good place to chill out and relax for a few days or few weeks.
Sand Dunes
Around Mui Ne there are a few sights worth a few hours diversion. The picturesque white sand dunes occupy a relatively small area but are nice place to spend an hour or so. The red sand dunes and the “Fairy Stream” are exaggerated attractions and not worth going out of your way to see.
Da Lat
This former hill station is worth a couple of days to escape the heat of the coast. There are waterfalls to visit and other attractions such as the Summer Palace of the last Emperor Bao Dai and the Crazy House built by architect Hang Nga. A walk around Lake Xuan Huong makes for a pleasant afternoon.
Nha Trang
There is a nice beach, plenty of hotels to suit all pockets and a wide range of eating places; from good restaurants to pavement cafés. You could do worse than spending an hour in the fascinating Alexander Yersin Museum. The Thap Ba Hot Springs offers an afternoon of wallowing in warm oozing mud, washed off by warm invigorating mineral rich water.
The Po Nagar Cham Towers and the big white Buddha in the Long Son Pagoda merit about half an hour each. Be careful not to be ripped off by a friendly monk in the Pagoda.
The Nha Trang highlight is probably a trip around the islands with an opportunity to snorkel amongst the richest coral colonies in Vietnam.
Hoi An
The Town
An old town full character and narrow streets fronting the Thu Bon River. The highlight is the sixteenth century Japanese Bridge. Whist the town and the bridge is a UN World Heritage Sight it can be fully explored in half a day. The real attraction of Hoi An is the tailor shops, shoe shops and friendly people. They can make made to measure clothes and shoes in any style in 24 hours.
My Son
This old Cham civilisation site is the best archaeological remains of the thousand year old civilisation in Vietnam. It is in a lovely setting and represents a nice day out from Hoi An for a walk in the woods. However it is no where near as large and impressive as Angkor Wat in Cambodia. If you have been to Angkor Wat My Son will be disappointing.
Da Nang
Cham Museum
The excellent Cham museum holds many of the carvings and statues recovered from My Son and the other Cham sites around Vietnam. The city itself is not particularly attractive but the people seemed friendly and happy to just chat to visitors.
Hué
Imperial City
The Imperial City within the mighty Citadel is rich in the architecture of the seventeenth century Emperors. There are palaces, temples, theatres and courtyards in well laid out walks and gardens. It’s not as well preserved as the Forbidden City in Beijing but we spent whole days there, even going back to relax and see some things again.
Outside the Citadel there are interesting sights in the Chinese Quarter and the European Quarter. If you have time to spend in Vietnam it is probably best to spend it in Hué rather than Hanoi.
Perfume River
Emperor Ming Mang Mausoleum. Thien Mu Pagoda
The Mausoleums of the Emperors were built in the valley of the Perfume River. A day trip takes in these and interesting temples. A good day out.
DMZ
For those of a certain age the American War and the infamous Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) rings bells. The Vietnamese people however have sensibly worked to unify the country and erase the evidence of conflict. So there is really not much to see apart from a small museum at Khe Sanh. On the other hand a day trip to the former DMZ goes through spectacular countryside along highway 9, the road to Laos.
Hanoi
City
Hanoi is a pleasant city to walk around. Hoan Kiem Lake in the centre of the city provides good views and shady trees. The Old Quarter is packed full of hustle and bustle and interesting shops. Hopping over the waste water flowing in gutters to avoid the thousands of darting motorcycles is part of the fun. The budget hotels however are a pain. The price charged by some is based on the assumption that guests will book a tour from which a commission can be extracted or a scam executed. If tours are not booked other means of extracting money is achieved, like trebling the price of drinks in the room fridges or fiddling the exchange rates. When we booked our Halong Bay cruise the staff from the hotel booked us on a much cheaper boat trip and pocketed the difference. Don’t book tours from the hotels in Hanoi.
Perfume Pagoda
A day trip to the Perfume Pagoda involves a row boat ride up the peaceful Red River with high craggy mountains up each side. The Pagoda itself is high in a mountain at the end of the valley. It is reached after a two hour walk up a rocky path or using the new cable car. Be prepared however for the aggressive insistence of a substantial “tip” from the ladies who row the boats.
Ha Long Bay
Ha Long Bay is an area of outstanding natural beauty. Seen in good light on a sunny day it is magnificent. A three day two night cruise on a reputable cruise boat is definitely recommended. Take care to book directly with the cruise company and not through a hotel or a local travel agency
Sapa
The mountains around Sapa are breathtaking and the trekking opportunities great. The local indigenous peoples are a delight, very friendly and open. Certainly they want to sell you their craft work, but they don’t seem to mind if you smile and say no. The train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, near Sapa, has six berth compartments, four berth compartments and very comfortable two berth compartments.
Where we were:
Places to visit in Ghana
Posted by: | CommentsWe are often asked what sights we think are worth seeing, which places we found interesting and what would we recommend doing. These are our thoughts. There is much more detail in our Journal for Ghana. We crossed West Africa by public transport in late 2005 and early 2006 and our notes are in the Journal section of this web site.
The details may change so we suggest you check with a good guide book. We prefer the “Rough Guide” series because they are well written and kept up to date. You can get more information on www.roughguides.com
Tamale
The main attraction in Tamale was the Mole Game Reserve, about two hours away, from Tamale. You can stay in a lodge overlooking a waterhole where elephants and other big game came to drink. Most travellers said it was well worth a visit.
Kumasi
Kumasi is the second biggest city in Ghana, with over a million inhabitants, it looks and feels like a capital city. It was once the capital of the Ashanti Empire and is still the vibrant focal point for the Ashanti peoples. The military museum is housed in an old British fort and the excellent guides are very entertaining. The Kumasi Cultural Centre is a collection of fairly large modern buildings in well kept park land. There are museums, libraries, galleries and workshops where you can watch local crafts being practiced. One fascinating small museum boasted well laid out displays of artefacts from Ashanti cultural history and the Ashanti royal family.
In the Okomfo Anokye Hospital there is a visitors centre housing the Okomfo Anokye sword. The legend is very similar to the English sword in the stone legend, except that the sword is still there.
Lake Bosomtwi
The road from nearby Kumasi affords breathtaking views of this 8km diameter tropical vegetation clad meteorite crater protecting the mesmerizing circular blue lake. This peaceful lake is sacred to the Ashanti people. So the lake fishermen still gently paddle around using flat pieces of wood held in each hand, sitting on boards whilst fishing using circular hand thrown nets. It is a magical place to relax and there are a range of hotels to suite every pocket. Lake Bosomtwe Paradise Resort is an excellent hotel on the shore of the lake.
http://www.lakebosomtweparadiseresort.com/
Cape Coast
Cape Coast castle glistened white in the warm evening light. From the ramparts black iron canons still point out to sea where fishing boats with brightly coloured sails race for the shore. This was once the seat of British administration in this part of West Africa, which the British colonised and called the Gold Coast. The castle was the last staging post for salves on their way to the Americas having passed through several dealers. The African kings of the interior, The Ashanti, captured these people during battles and skirmishes and held them captive. The slaves were then sold and transported to the coastal kings. These kings controlling the coast not only charged the Europeans ground rent on their castles but also charged rent for every slave kept overnight in the castles. So the African kings were heavily and not honourably engaged in the slave trade.
At Kakum Nature Reserve morning mist slowly lifts like a veil from the towering trees. From the forest floor, with ferns and bushes, trees rose like pillars in a Greek temple. High above the craning necks of visitors monkeys chatter, birds flit and swoop and colourful butterflies flutter. Visitors are able to see the teeming life in the forest canopy from an ariel walkway built 30ft above the forest floor. Perhaps the most interesting part of the reserve is the walk in the woods with a forestry expert. He shows people the slow growing ebony trees, mahogany trees and the huge quick growing kapok trees with massive buttresses stabilising these woodland giants.
Elmina
Elmina castle is the oldest European building in Africa. It was commissioned by King John II of Portugal in 1482. Today it still dominates the busy fishing beach and commands the defence of the river where wooden fishing boats are still built by traditional methods. The huge white walls of the castle tower over the beach where brightly painted boats are dragged up onto the sand surrounded by hundreds of frenetic fish traders and porters. The fishing boats are brightly and boldly named with Christian themes, like ‘Jesus the Fisherman’. Opposite the castle is a fort built later to defend the castle. Both are open to the public.
Hoehoe
The Wli Falls cascade spectacularly 100ft over a sheer cliff in the range of mountains which separate Ghana from Togo. There is a pleasant walk through the forest to the falls where visitors can see coffee beans, cocoa pods and pineapples growing.
Many Ghanaians visit the falls to picnic and swim in the pool at the base. So whoops, splashing and laughter resounded around cliff faces. Some of the enterprising locals may offer to shoot the roosting bats from the cliff face around the falls and cook the catch on an open fire for your nourishment and delectation.
Ada
Ada is a small idyllic fishing village on the south coast nestling under tall palm trees, under a clear blue sky, on a perfect beach. Walking along the beach it is possible to see thirty or forty village people, men, women and children hauling in huge fishing nets. Accra is on the coast east of Accra.
Accra
Accra the capital of Ghana, a modern bustling city of over one million people. Ghana achieved its independence from Britain in 1957 when it was one of the most prosperous countries in West Africa. Its first president, the forward looking Kwame Nkrumah advocated a pan African union on a socialist model. He is still looked up to as the father of the African Union. While he invested heavily in major infrastructure projects, like the Akosombo hydroelectric dam the world price of cocoa beans fell and he generally miss-managed the economy. As his term in office lengthened he became more and more autocratic and despotic until he announced he would be president for life. Despite this Kwame Nkrumah is remembered with affection and the monument and museum dedicated to his life in a well maintained park in the centre of Accra is worth a visit.
Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, Accra
The Freedom Arch, the opera house and James Town, a small enclave near the beach, are popular tourist sights. In general Accra looked to be much more prosperous than the other West African cities we had travelled through. The streets were clean and the offices and shops seemed modern and well maintained.
Accra street Scene.
