We are often asked what sights we think are worth seeing, which places we found interesting and what would we recommend doing.  These are our thoughts. There is much more detail in our Journal for Mali. We crossed West Africa by public transport in late 2005 and early 2006 and our notes are in the Journal section of this web site.

The details may change so we suggest you check with a good guide book. We prefer the “Rough Guide” series because they are well written and kept up to date.  You can get more information on www.roughguides.com

Timbuktu

Sankoré Mosque and the Djingareiber Mosque  

Timbuktu, the mystical city, has captured the imagination of Europeans for at least the past couple of centuries. It is the travel objective of many people visiting Mali. Whilst the city itself is now sand blown and depressed many still savour the journey to get there. Indeed it is the journey which makes the trip worthwhile. There are several options. One is to travel romantically on a slow cargo boat from Mopti down the Niger and through the inland Niger Delta, spending a couple of days on the boat. This is a slow and not very comfortable trip. Another river option is the much more comfortable and faster tourist boats from Mopti. Some still stop for a night, camping on the bank.  Over land from Douéntza to Timbuktu can be done in two days by public transport minivan or one day in a four wheel drive truck. The road is through arid semi desert with magnificent rock outcrops on the way. The road or rather track is un-surfaced and the tyre marks in the sand of other vehicles often disappears.  In the middle, the rest areas are crude shelters but it is a wonderful opportunity to meet other travellers on camels. Other regular travellers on the overland route are Tuareg donkey trains taking grain to Timbuktu to trade for Saharan rock salt which they take back to Mopti.

Ornate doors of the Sidi Yéhia Mosque. Traveller with camel on the overland route to Timbuktu.

The fabled wealth of Timbuktu comes from the twelfth century when in 1324 Masa Musa made a fabulous pilgrimage to Mecca, passing through Cairo.  Now the town is decidedly threadbare with three mosques, a couple of museums and three “explorers” houses to see. The Djingareiber Mosque is the oldest and said to be the most interesting.  It was built in 1325 by an Andalucian architect and poet, El Saheli, on the orders of the famous Kankan Mousa. Its high castellated mud brick walls had a conical tower in the centre and was frankly not nearly as impressive at the great mosque at Djénné.  The other two mosques were built in the 15th Century.  The Sankoré Mosque was small and simple and built by a Berber woman.  This looked much more interesting with a magnificent 30 foot mud brick pyramid shaped tower, studded with toron, or sticks, regularly arranged on the surface.  The Sidi Yéhia Mosque, perhaps the least attractive externally has magnificent wooden doors decorated with exquisitely cut metal plates. 

Festival in the Desert

Every year a rock and traditional music festival is held in the desert north of Timbuktu. Details of the next event are available on; www.festivalinthedesert.org

Djenné

The famous Djenné Mosque is said to be the largest mud brick structure in the world and it is really impressive. With three large square towers, in the centre of the front façade, each reaching over 10m into the clear blue sky the mosque dominates the town.  Each tower has an array of wooden poles, or toron, sticking out of the surface so that workmen can easily climb to repair and maintain the banco exterior after the rains each year.  Around the massive toron studded walls are pointed castellations giving the mosque the air of a fairy tale castle.  Standing on a three metre high plinth the Mosque seems to tower out of the central market square.  It was said that with the main worship hall being 50m by 26m and with 90 pillars supporting the wooden roof the mosque could accommodate thousands of worshipers. 

The surrounding three storey houses are also mud brick structures formed along narrow streets and alleys to produce welcome shade from the African sun. The Moroccan style doors and window shutters add to the charm of the town which is listed as a UN World Heritage site. We felt Djenné was much more impressive than Timbuktu and well worth a day. The town is just south of Sevarré, which is near Mopti.   

Mopti

The bustling and colourful inland port of Mopti is alive with vibrant colour and life. River traffic destined for Timbuktu and the towns down the River Niger into Nigeria and the Niger Delta load here.
 

Dogon County

Market in Sanga. Sacred house with fetishes in external niches 

High on a plateaux above the surrounding plains the Dogon people have maintained their animist culture and beliefs for hundreds of years. Despite both Christian and Muslim missions the Dogon way of life is still practiced as it has always been. Living in mud brick and rock houses the animist believes are clearly visible as fetishes kept in niches on the walls of sacred houses. They are a shy and almost secretive people who are friendly to visitors but don’t invite intrusion.  Visitors are shown around the rocky villages, some perched right on the abyss of the cliff edge of the plateaux.  There is little accommodation here and organised tours are discouraged, but independent travellers are offered flat roofs to sleep on or simple rooms.  Visiting the Dogon country in southern Mali felt like a privilege. This should certainly be on the travel plans of anyone exploring Mali.   

Telem Cliff Villages

The Telem cliff face villages are an incredible sight in the Dogon country. Two storey rock houses and granaries were built in huge rock crevices high in the rock face, over a thousand years ago. Clearly visible from the surrounding hills these ancient villages are still there. If this marvellous sight was not in such a remote place we believe it would certainly be classified as one of the wonders of the world. 

Segou

The pleasant little town of Segou is a nice place to spend a couple of days. Perched on the banks of the River Niger it is a quiet unpretentious town with friendly people, a couple of good family run hotels and decent restaurants.  There are a couple of places of interest nearby, a fishing village and Kalabougou, regionally renown for its pottery.

Kalabougou

The village seemed to be engulfed in flames as we approached. In fact the women in the village were firing the clay pots they had made during the week. Visitors are very welcome to take a boat up the Niger from Segou to the village to stroll around and watch the women hand forming clay pots. What is remarkable is that the pot stays still and the potters walk round and round, managing to produce perfectly circular results. They explain the glazes and if you are lucky enough to arrive on the day the pots are fired watch the finished pots being dragged from the straw fires.

Bamako 

Bank and modern hotel 

Bamako is the Capital of Mali. It is a modern African city on the banks of the River Niger. Whilst there are some large buildings and the central streets are paved the city sprawls out with more modest accommodation for the one million inhabitants.  The National Museum has very well presented displays and is well worth a half day visit. 

Kayes

Reputed to be the hottest town in Africa it is an important regional centre on the Senegal River. There are some colonial French buildings which now house local government offices. It is a good place to stop and rest if you are travelling to or from Senegal. Otherwise there is not much to attract visitors.

Bamako is the Capital of Mali. It is a modern African city on the banks of the River Niger. Whilst there are some large buildings and the central streets are paved the city sprawls out with more modest accommodation for the one million inhabitants.  The National Museum has very well presented displays and is well worth a half day visit.

Kayes

Reputed to be the hottest town in Africa it is an important regional centre on the Senegal River. There are some colonial French buildings which now house local government offices. It is a good place to stop and rest if you are travelling to or from Senegal. Otherwise there is not much to attract visitors.

Where we were: